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Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Medieval Food, Medieval Place



Part of our week included mini-lectures on Medieval food practices and it’s fascinating to learn how closely food was aligned with religious and moral values (with lifestyle consequences). In the 2nd century AD, Galen created a system of food that governed Medieval eating and cuisine for the time. Much of the diet was the same compared with what we eat today except beans, potatoes, and tomatoes. They came from the New World and didn’t come into play until the Renaissance.


Galen’s intricate system of food involved the 4 humours (Choleric et al), the 4 elements (Air, water and crew), and the 4 elemental fluids (Blood, two colors of bile, etc.). It’s as if they were trying to create auspicious meals under constructs similar to Feng Shui, aromatheraphy, and astrology.

Because almonds were so nutritionally valuable as a source of protein that lasted longer than animal proteins (for which there was no refrigeration), we made Blanc Mange, a Medieval rice dish believed to be good for treating illness. Typically the dish is rice, chicken, ginger, almond milk and sugar. The Medieval Kitchen by Redon, Sabban and Serventi cites that there were blanc mange preferences country to country, rather than outright differences.
By the way, sugar is to be avoided when you are sick but since this was likely beet sugar rather than cane sugar, in particular big agriculture where we don't really know what we're eating anymore, I think the jury is still out on whether this dish would have actually been good or not for the ill.
Catalan Style Blanc Mange (because we came from Barcelona and are going there next)
Translated from the Italian, it’s known as “white food” because it’s traditionally made from rice, blanced almonds and chicken breast- all white foods.

1.5 lbs. blanced almonds ground in food processor (not super fine)
2 tablespoons rice flour
8 cups chicken stock
1 boiled chicken breast (white meat) pureed
Salt
½ cup rose water
1 tsp. grated nutmeg
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
3 or 4 cloves, crushed
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. saffron stigmas infused in 2 tbs. strained hot water (optional)

Combine the ground almonds and rice flour in a post; stirring constantly. Add 4 cups of stock in a thin, even stream. Then add the chicken breast and remaining stock; season with salt, cover, and simmer until the mixture thickens into a thick, creamy consistency. Remove from heat, add the rose water, and fold in the nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves. Season with pepper to taste; serve hot. If desired, the saffron infusion can be added to make a “yellow” blanc mange.

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